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Cut Crease

February 8, 2017

 

 

‘Instagram make-up’ as it is now known, a trend of dramatic makeups, inspired by your regular glam makeup for nights out and special occasions and incorporating techniques originally used for drag makeup and stage makeup. 

Makeup artists and enthusiasts are continuously taking inspiration from one another, combing techniques and trying out new styles to create something a bit different or more dramatic. 

 

This look shows model Agata Stefanowska wearing a half cut crease eye makeup with full face contour. When doing a makeup that involves a heavy eye or a lot of colour, it is best to start off with the eyes. This way you can clean up any eyeshadow that will fall onto the cheeks. Using various shades of pink, start with the lightest in the crease as your transition shade. A transition shade ensures your eyes blend seamlessly. To create more depth go in with a darker shade of pink, depending on the amount of depth you would like to create you can keep adding in darker shades to the crease and outer corner. Using a small amount of black in the outer corner will also create a more dramatic, smokey look.

 

When you are happy with the colours and depth of the eye, it’s time to get started on the cut crease. A cut crease can be taken across the full eyelid, however for this look it has only been taken half way. Using a concealer on a flat synthetic brush, carve out your cut crease and apply the concealer until you are happy with the shape. On top of the concealer a pale pink shimmer eyeshadow was applied, this creates a nice base of colour as well as setting the concealer. Using the pink eye shadows used previously, blend the cut crease into the outer corner. When the blend is complete and the colours transition nicely you can then add glitter. Using a glitter priming base, apply it across the area of the cut crease and then layer the glitter on until look is complete. Add highlight to the brow bone and tear duct area, this enhance the eyes. To compliment the winged out structure of this eye makeup, Agata is wearing MCM7 mink lashes.

 

On to the base… Prime the skin with an illuminating primer, this gives a dewy glow. Apply foundation across the face and blend down the neck. Using cream contour or concealer lighter than the foundation, highlight the under eye area and t-zone. Then using a darker shade, contour under the cheekbones and around the forehead. Depending on personal preference you can also contour the nose too. Blend out the highlight and contour, ensuring there are no patches and no harsh lines. Although we want the contour to look strong it shouldn’t look too dramatic. Set the face with a translucent powder, you can use the ‘baking’ technique by leaving the powder on the skin for a couple of minutes before brushing away product, this technique is used for theatrical and stage makeup to keep the makeup in place for longer. Finally add highlight on the tops of the cheekbones to create a glowing finish. Complete the look with a nude lip liner and lip gloss.